Liveaboard Sumbawa to Komodo Diving with IndoSeamore

Five years. Silence. Empty dive boats. The pandemic had swept over the diving world, leaving only memories of underwater adventures. But the call of the ocean, particularly the legendary Komodo diving, echoed louder than ever. While I'd enjoyed dives in Tulamben and explored Mexico's cenotes, nothing compared to the magic of a liveaboard trip exploring Komodo National Park. It used to be a yearly ritual, but those days seemed like a distant dream.

Silent depths. Empty dive boats. Scattered friends. Guides turned fishermen. The pandemic's waves had crashed over the diving world, leaving only Komodo diving memories. But the seas were finally open again, and I was ready to breathe life back into my lungs, quite literally, and dive back into the magic of Komodo.

In July 2024, a group of 18 Malaysian divers and I, led by the ever-enthusiastic side-mount queen diver Liyana, embarked on a six-day expedition from Sumbawa to Komodo. Our home for this Komodo diving adventure was the IndoSeamore, a stunning Phinisi sailing vessel – a chance for me to showcase the underwater beauty of my homeland to both old and new friends.

The propellers of the Bali-Sumbawa flight whined like a chorus of cicadas. Inside, I found Malaysian dive buddies, a salty bunch with sun-creased faces and stories etched in laughter lines. A quick hop to Lombok for a pit stop, then finally, we touched down at the gleaming new Sumbawa airport - two months old and still smelling of fresh paint.

Here, dwarfed by the watchful gaze of Mount Rinjani, our Komodo liveaboard adventure began. It was a journey that would leave an indelible mark, a memory etched deep long after the last bubbles of our dives faded into the endless blue.

Moyo Island and Water Jitu Waterfall

Our captain took us first to Moyo Island, a quiet treasure unspoiled by modern tourists. Our underwater excursion began at the magnificent Moyo Wall. There, at the magnificent Moyo Wall, our underwater odyssey began. Later, under the cloak of night, we plunged into the inky depths off Labuan Aji jetty, the mystery of the dark pressing in around us. Both dives highlighted the region's magnificent underwater ecosystem.

The familiar weightlessness washed over me as I slipped beneath the surface. The coral reefs were thriving, a testament to nature's resilience. The vibrant fish came alive before our eyes, creating a dazzling underwater display. A school of barracudas swam alongside us, while a moray eel peeked out from beneath a rock.

Fish swarmed the water, blocking sunlight.

A vivid scene unfolded before our eyes.

The ocean's beauty and variety left me in awe. We even spotted a white-tip shark, followed by a pair of reef sharks, which made us feel a deep connection to the vastness of the ocean.

Vibrant reefs thrive with abundant marine life. Our night dive was illuminated by moonlight, transforming the water into an ethereal scene. Beneath the Labuan Aji jetty, darkness revealed its secrets. We witnessed a coconut octopus expertly shift its colours, a masterclass in disguise. A mimic octopus seamlessly merged with its surroundings, blurring reality and illusion. A flamboyant cuttlefish radiated vibrant hues, its colours dancing in the darkness. As we surfaced, the moon's soft glow capped off an unforgettable day.

We ventured into Moyo Island's lush interior on the same day as our first dive. We encountered the intoxicating scent of damp earth and exotic flowers lining the jungle path we took by local motorbike. Our journey led us to a hidden marvel - the Mata Jitu waterfall. Water cascaded down the moss-covered cliff, creating a refreshing oasis in the midst of Moyo's heat. We took a revitalizing swim in the pool, and then sat beneath the falls, letting the sound of the water wash over us.

No fancy drinks or city noise, just the raw beauty of nature. This wasn't a crowded tourist spot, but a hidden oasis known only to a few. It was a stark contrast to our everyday lives, a reminder of the peace and power that nature offers to those who seek it.

Fun Fact: Birdwatchers flock to Moyo Island with over 100 recorded species. The island is a treasure trove of unique wildlife, including the tiny Moyo deer, the undisputed champion of the world's smallest deer title! 

We experienced a sense of serenity and connection to everything around us as we lounged by the waterfall, taking in the symphony of nature. It was a moment of reflection that deepened our appreciation for the wonders of both the land and the sea.

Whale Sharks at Teluk Saleh and Satonda Dives

It was early morning, 6 a.m., as our leader instructed us to get ready. Sunday dawned cold, and the air was thick with anticipation as our boat sliced across the clear sea towards Satonda Island. We stopped at Teluk Saleh (Saleh Bay) to observe the elusive whale sharks.

Researchers expected the world's largest fish to visit Teluk Saleh Bay. The bay has nutrient-rich waters. As we approached the appointed location, a full sight arose on the horizon. Vibrant snorkeler boats rocked gently, their passengers ecstatic, beaming with happiness.

We prepared by back-rolling from our boat, our pulses pumping with a combination of amazement and disbelief. We dove underwater, and we found ourselves surrounded by gentle giants. Four gorgeous whale sharks basked in the dappled sunlight. Their bodies had a stunning pattern of spots and stripes. They flowed smoothly through the water, dwarfing everything around them.

Their vast size was humbling, showing the deep strength and mystery below. The whale sharks were a reminder of the ocean's vastness and its unique species. These gentle giants feed by filtering and pose no threat to people. However, they are endangered. Their decreasing numbers highlight the delicate marine balance and the need for conservation.

Fun Fact: Whale sharks are the largest fish on Earth. They reach an average length of 30 feet (9 metres). Some measurements have exceeded 50 feet (15 meters). These creatures inhabit warm oceans all over the world. Aggregations occur in predictable spots, like Teluk Saleh Bay.

We left Satonda Island behind, barely visible. Our day was full of excitement. We skied down near a massive volcano. Initially, we traversed sandy shores and then reached vivid coral reefs, the product of volcanic activity. Diving was a treat. We explored a maze of sea life. Huge sponges, coral, and sea fans moved with the water, creating an underwater city. We uncovered shy creatures like frogfish, ghost pipefish, and leaf fish. Shrimp danced near their anemone homes. Occasionally, we spotted a reef shark, napping.

Satonda offers more than an underwater world. The island features a striking saltwater lake at its centre, a geological marvel formed by a past volcanic eruption. Local myths craft stories around the lake's origins, enriching the island's mystique. Scientists go to Satonda to study its unique ecosystem and the lake's link to the 1815 eruption of Mount Tambora.

Sangeang's Secrets: Black Rivers and Neon Nudibranchs

The sun, a blood orange bruise on the horizon, barely peeked over the volcanic silhouette of Sangeang. Days blurred into dives – Hot Rock's sulfurous vents, the inky Black River, the hidden reefs of Tikno and Dontor, each a story etched in saltwater.

Hot Rock's descent twisted our guts. Bubbles danced a jig as we plunged into emerald green water, the tang of sulfur sharp in our lungs. The seabed, volcanic rock and black sand, pulsed with hidden heat. Vents shot plumes of scalding water, a reminder of the molten heart beneath our fins. Eel-like creatures, silver in the unnatural light, weaved in and out of the vents, life clinging on in this hostile cradle.

Black River was a world of its own. Fishermen busied themselves filling jugs with freshwater, and oxen lazed on the sun-kissed shore. The afternoon sun hammered down, turning the river's surface into a dazzling mirror. We geared up to explore the underwater maze, expecting a mess of muck and life. The moment we dropped in, a rainbow of colors exploded around us. Coral formations pulsed with energy, hosting schools of fish that darted every which way. Nudibranchs, like living jewels, inched across the seabed, showcasing evolution's master craftsmanship. In this vibrant, chaotic world, life thrived in stark contrast to Hot Rock's harsh beauty. Every nook and cranny presented a mystery, eager to be solved.

Our surface intervals weren't just for relaxation. We explored a charming local village, where a massive cargo ship under construction stood as a testament to the men's skills. We were equally captivated by the women's artistry, their hand-woven fabrics a kaleidoscope of colors. 

Tikno, our next dive, a vibrant nudibranch sanctuary, exceeded expectations. The reef exploded with color as intricate creatures flaunted their patterns, forming a living work of art. Shaun the Sheep nudibranchs, no larger than rice grains, feasted on algae, their beady eyes and fluffy bodies bringing cartoons to life.

Pikachu nudibranchs blanketed the coral, a vibrant swarm stealing the show. At one point, I counted 25 of these electric slugs scattered playfully across the seabed.

DonTor's final act exploded with life. Tuna and barracuda darted past us in silver flashes. As we broke the surface, our shared moment of decompression was filled with wonder. The staggering diversity of life around us left us awestruck. Sangeang was more than just a dive site. It was a vibrant, underwater world that showed the incredible beauty and resilience thriving beneath the waves.

 For a macro photographer, Combination Moyo, and Sangeang was a dream come true.

The Current and Hidden Wonders of Komodo

We pushed into the scorching sunlight on Komodo. Sweat dripped down our backs as we got away from Sangeang's towering volcano. Our course was set for the fabled currents of Komodo National Park. An electric sense of anticipation hung in the air. It was a silent bond that only divers could feel. On this day, we had four dives ahead of us, with each one holding a story waiting to be uncovered in the ocean's depths. Shotgun, Crystal Rock, Castle Rock, and Sunset Reef - names that hinted at the secrets hidden below. These were more than just introductions - they were promises of the wonders we were about to discover.

Our initial destination, fittingly called "Shotgun," proved to be a baptism by the force of the water. We dove headfirst into a vivid sea of blue, carried by a bustling wall brimming with vitality. The water rushed and the fish danced, their scales shimmering like precious gems. Massive trevally, sleek torpedoes armed with razor-sharp teeth, prowled the perimeters, a constant reminder of the untamed nature that resided in these waters. The coral formations were truly awe-inspiring, shaped by the unyielding current into elaborate arches and caverns – a paradise for divers.  

For some, Shotgun current was a beast to be wrestled, a constant tug threatening to pull them from the vibrant tapestry of life. But for seasoned divers, it was a dance, a push and pull that allowed them to navigate this underwater ballet. This was "Shotgun," a baptism by current, a dive that separated the rookies from the veterans.

"Crystal Rock" presented a striking contrast. We were able to venture into a vast underwater pinnacle adorned with stunning hard and soft corals as the current gently subsided. The water was so clear, it was a paradise for photographers. The coral was adorned with vibrant nudibranchs, gracefully making their way across. A multitude of vibrant anthias gracefully floated in the current, their brilliant hues creating a stunning display against the expansive blue backdrop. As we made our way up, surgeonfish swam alongside us, their bodies shimmering in the sunlight, guiding us back to the surface.

The afternoon led us to "Castle Rock," a magnificent underwater structure that truly lived up to its name. The majestic structure stood tall, reminiscent of a hidden stronghold, adorned with vibrant corals and sponges. The eagle rays gracefully glided through the air, their wings creating fleeting shadows below. Graceful reef sharks, effortlessly gliding by with an air of nonchalance. The best part of the spectacle was a single cuttlefish. Its captivating camouflage changed with each graceful motion. It shifted from earthy tones to a breathtaking mix of vibrant hues.

As the sun sank beneath the horizon, casting vibrant colours across the sky, we embarked on our last descent - "Sunset Reef." The reef burst with a kaleidoscope of vibrant colours as the sun's rays danced through the water. Groups of fusiliers, resembling glistening clouds, gracefully swayed in the flowing water. A majestic Napoleon wrasse, with its vibrant blue and yellow colours, confidently guarded its domain. We floated along the reef slope. The waning sunlight stretched shadows. I toyed with baby cuttlefish, amazed by their graceful movements lit by my torch. It was a mesmerizing underwater performance. The day's adventures came to a close, leaving us in awe of the breathtaking and unspoiled wonders of Komodo's underwater realm.

We had three more dives scheduled for the next day, but none could compare to the Secret Garden. The greeny and cold water rippled with excitement as it flowed downwards. This was the place, a rumoured sanctuary for the enigmatic and inquisitive. The reef teemed with vibrant life, as soft corals gracefully danced beneath the surface. I remained intensely focused, my attention unwavering as I searched for any sign of a frogfish.

There, amidst the coral, a tiny wonder appeared. A tiny frogfish, barely larger than a marble, effortlessly camouflaged with its surroundings due to its mottled skin. I observed, captivated, as it pounced with surprising aggression, devouring an unfortunate prawn in its massive jaws.

The pursuit pressed on. We came across frogfish in all their stages - from tiny wonders to their more experienced counterparts. Each a testament to the unforgiving efficiency of evolution. The mysterious mobula ray remained hidden, yet the ocean floor teemed with vitality. A mesmerising display of stingrays, their elegant motions serving as a captivating solace.

The other dives truly embodied their names. Tatawa Kecil is an island full of life where baby sharks playfully emerge from under coral formations. Karang Makassar is a vibrant reef bustling with a kaleidoscope of fish.

However, our big finale, the Secret Garden, gripped me completely. Amidst the soft swing of corals and the playful presence of coral flowers, a stunning underwater world presented itself in a small but charming exhibition. An unknown monument to the elegance and strength concealed underneath the surface. Even the most seasoned diver may feel the thrill of discovering something new.

Beyond the breath-taking dives

Our journey offered breathtaking hikes as well. Gili Lawa, a tiny island neighbouring Komodo, greeted us with a panoramic vista unlike any other. Imagine standing on a grassy hilltop with turquoise water lapping at the shore in every direction and neighbouring islands rising from the sea like sleeping giants. Gili Lawa's beauty is a photographer's dream—a postcard come to life. Here, you might even encounter families of wild deer, adding another layer of wonder to the island's charm.

The hike itself was an adventure. The sun beat down, but the cool ocean breeze and the promise of a hidden beach at the end fueled our steps. The path meandered through dry savannah and pockets of lush greenery, offering glimpses of unique birdlife and vibrant wildflowers. The challenge of the hike was quickly forgotten when we reached the view—a breathtaking panorama that left us speechless.

Another gem in Komodo National Park, Padar Island, has a dramatic landscape that the elements of wind and water have sculpted. Our hike led us past towering cliffs that separate three distinct bays. Each bay offered a unique perspective, a stark illustration of nature's raw power. The azure turquoise waters, pristine white sand beaches, and rugged volcanic rock formations formed a vivid contrast. They created a scene that was both beautiful and grand. The true reward of Padar is the panoramic vista that unfolded from the summit. Reaching the top, the world seemed to stretch out endlessly before us, a beautiful view of islands and turquoise waters.

Rinca Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers more than just a haven for the famed Komodo dragons. This volcanic island, cloaked in dry forest and savanna grasslands, is a living museum of nature's power and the importance of conservation.

Rinca wasn't just about dragons; it was a journey into a unique ecosystem. We trekked alongside a watchful guide, maintaining a safe distance as we marveled at the size and power of these prehistoric giants roaming their natural habitat. Witnessing a rare encounter – an intimate display between a king and queen Komodo dragon – was a humbling reminder of the delicate balance we must maintain.

Rinca's designation as a World Heritage Site signifies its global significance. The island plays a vital role in maintaining the delicate ecological balance of the region. Here, Komodo dragons share the habitat with a diverse range of mammals, birds, reptiles, and insects. Protecting Rinca ensures the survival of these unique species and the untouched beauty of the island for generations to come.

Nature's Resilience

The trip hammered home nature's resilience. Proof the ocean was healing, even after the long haul. The reefs pulsed with life, a far cry from the silence of the past few years. For me, it wasn't just diving again, it was a celebration. Seeing the comeback after the struggle filled you with a quiet hope. Divers and ocean lovers, this Sumbawa to Komodo with IndoSeamore is one to mark. A world underwater, islands rising - a stark reminder of what's at stake. This trip ignites a fire in your gut, leaves you with memories etched deep.

About IndoSeamore

Our incredible experience wouldn't have been possible without IndoSeamore. Our team of 19 passionate scuba divers went on an unforgettable 6-day, 5-night private charter. It was aboard IndoSeamore's well-kept Phinisi, ensuring a comfy and memorable journey. The professionalism and attentiveness of the captain, cruise director and crew were evident in every interaction.

As seasoned divers, our priorities were clear: exceptional dive sites, efficient gear management, and knowledgeable guides. IndoSeamore exceeded expectations on all fronts. Pak Rudy, the cruise director, meticulously planned a dive itinerary that was nothing short of spectacular. He ensured we experienced the best of the underwater world while also orchestrating unforgettable excursions on land.

Our dive guides, Pascal, Okta, and Franky, were true masters of their craft. Their expertise and passion for diving were contagious, ensuring a safe and enriching underwater experience. They pointed out hidden wonders and ensured our safety throughout every dive.

The attentive boat crew played a vital role in our comfort and well-being. From the welcome warmth of hot drinks after each dive to the captain's insightful local knowledge, their dedication was evident in every interaction. IndoSeamore truly fostered a sense of home away from home on the open seas.

Chef Yuda's culinary expertise, coupled with Ipul's artful plating, transformed every meal into a delightful experience. We were treated to delicious and satisfying dishes, the perfect fuel for a day of diving, trekking, and exploration. The crew's warmth and hospitality made every moment on board unforgettable.

Sumbawa and Komodo are diving paradises, and IndoSeamore provided the perfect boat and crews to explore their underwater wonders. This adventure transformed us. It gave us unforgettable memories and access to remote nature. It also showed the critical importance of protecting our natural world for future generations.

Six days carved a memory deep. This wasn't just a dive trip, it was a communion with nature, a return to a world teeming with life. If your blood craves the ocean's embrace, this journey – Sumbawa to Komodo with IndoSeamore – is one to mark. For more on diving Komodo's magic, see our past tales here. Nusa Tenggara's wonders await as well here. Tight lines. Keep making bubbles.